Christov_Tenn wrote:Once I actually got down to the work, it only took about fifteen or twenty minutes. Sewing in a seated position with the work at chest level was what I could not do at home - just not enough space nor good enough lighting. Use of a metal thimble is recommended when sewing through several layers, as I did on the stern near the rudder plate (if that is the correct term?).
I experimented with glue on some spots that were not worn entirely through, with mixed results. I botched an attempt to glue the edges together of on inch-long tear that I will have to sew to repair properly, once the glue has worn off enough to loosen the edges from the piping. Maybe light sandpaper will free it up.
I've recently been upgrading my work benches, -better surfaces, seating, lighting, tool mounting, etc. Since I've only recently found a "home port", this wasn't a luxury that made any sense before, so my bench is just starting to become professional grade. One of the re-occuring themes in postings of late has been lighting. The ideal lighting for fine work comes from 2 to 3 sources to eliminate harsh shadows. Basically the problem usually arises in getting the light close enough, but not in the way. I'd been casting my eye about and finally found an Angle Poise -UK (Architect's lamp? -US) at a high end art supply in Denver (Meineger's on Broadway, for those in Colo) for only US$12. What a great price! They had another that was dual incondescent/flourescent for US$70, which I may buy for a second lamp later. These lamps are great in that they can use 100 watt lamps and the lamp can be positioned anywhere in a 1m/3ft radius from their clamp base. This allows one to position light overhead, or mere inches away. If interested parties can't find this lamp let me know and I'll see if I can't find it's web pages, etc.
Work Surface & Seating.
Some of the sewing I've needed to do is best accomplished w/ the boat fully assembled, or nearly so. This can help avoid puckering the material. If it weren't for the assembled boat, having the project at table level would be perfect. But the assembled boat puts the project too high for a table, and back breaking for the floor. I happen to have some old military footlockers in which I store my camping gear etc. These are perfect for acting as saw horses to raise the project off the floor. I use a secretary's chair w/ castors for seating that allows me to easily reposition myself. A good chair will have a pnumatic height adjustment so one can easily find a comfortable position. I've seen them in Target for US$20. If one needs a table for an unassembled boat, and affected parties veto the use of the kitchen/dining table, one could use either regular saw horses or stack 1 more foot locker on each 1st foot locker. Put a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood on top and one would have a fairly decent temporary work surface. This is very similar to a British officer's traditional field campaign desk.
I've seen a legion of recommendations here, but it all boils down to surface. For patching a deck on a Klepper, to avoid puckering the fabric, first I assemble the boat. If I'm dealing w/ a tear, I control the tension of deck surface w/ the amount of air in the sponsons and use a "baseball" stitch to draw the lips of the tear together. Once the tear is "zipped" closed, I make a patch. For all patches, I prefer to round cut my corners on a 2-3cm radius. Square corners, especially w/ hypolon, just beg for something to catch underneath. Making them round greatly reduces this chance. I usually opt to make my patches about 4cm wide for a tear. For a deck patch, I outline the patch w/ a pen, and make sure that the surface is clean. I take Shoe Goo
(available on the shoe polish shelf at super markets) -rubber cement would also work, and I apply a thin film on both surfaces and wait about a minute, then apply the patch. You know those credit-card-like gift cards/hotel keys? They make great spatchulas for applying thin films of glue. The patch usually lays flat immediatly and you can start tacking the patch down w/ a small "overhand" stitch right away. I adapted this entire technique from patching bicycle tubes (Anyone remember sew-ups?) and found it works great for Klepper decks. I think the glue probably helps the fabric retain it's water impermability -works great on Wellies! Patches that I've used this technique are nearly invisible and are incredibly flat.
I hope I haven't provided too much unsolicited info, I'm just making observations to the relevent post.