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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:45 am 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 669
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Hi everyone,

After seven years the polyurethane deck on my quest 135 finally split at the back of the coaming. Looking closely I can see it's just a glue failure in the central seam rather than a tear. Can anyone recommend a good glue that’s appropriate for polyeurethane coated fabric? It’s subject to some tension because of the coaming tubing so I don’t think aqua seal is the right solution

Best wishes

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Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, First light 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (4sale),Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416 & Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Wanted:original Advanced Elements Air Fusion
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:34 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:46 am
Posts: 589
Location: inland Pennsylvania, USA
You don't have a Pakboat patch kit? I got one with my boat that included a little bottle of adhesive. I also have Feathercraft patch kits.

You might want to shoot an email to Alv at Pakboat, but I would think Aquaseal seam repair adhesive ought to work. The guy who sells the kits to make packrafts has it on his site:

https://www.diypackraft.com/shop/

I'd be inclined to cover a split like that (unless I am imagining it incorrectly) with a layover patch to ease the strain along that point. Maybe even reinforced with a second patch on the underside if that is accessible.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:14 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 669
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Thanks for that Kerry,

Maybe aquaseal is stronger than I thought, and a I think your idea of adding a patch to this high stress area is very sensible. Now if I only I can find my spare patches (I've moved continent twice since I bought my Quest 135.

PS I used my Quest again for the first time in a few years (so many kayaks, so little time...) when I was in Bali over Christmas. It's such an easy kayak to like; I was paddling against a 3 - 3.5 knot coastal current at one stage and still making 0.6 knots progress. Hit a fair bit of semi-submerged wooden debris as well but with no damage. Also tried the new (to me) Kalleq GP from Gearlabs and was very pleased with it. Despite the weight it's the closest performing GP I have vs my small wing paddle, even with a less tiring low angle stroke.

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Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, First light 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (4sale),Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416 & Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Wanted:original Advanced Elements Air Fusion
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI


Last edited by siravingmon on Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2015 2:10 pm
Posts: 92
I would stitch the area after gluing it. That will reinforce it - in particular if the stitched area is a little longer than the welded seam failure. If you worry about waterproofness, you can solve that with a little adhesive on top of the stitches.

Aquaseal works well, but the repair needs to be under pressure while the adhesive cures. The Clifton adhesive we ship with the repair kits works just as well and does not need the cure time. The downside is that is not widely distributed.

Good luck!
Alv


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:34 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 669
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Thanks Alv!

Time to do some research on most effective stitches for joints in tension...

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Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, First light 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (4sale),Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416 & Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Wanted:original Advanced Elements Air Fusion
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI


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