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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 2:38 am 
Thank you kindly for your replies...

I would like to ask you another question about this as well: a number of people here and elsewhere say that they experience less fatigue and less soreness when they use a greenland paddle instead of a 'regular' (Euro) one..I like the sound of that....However, they also say that greenland paddles tend to work better with lighter, narrow boats than with others.....

How well do you think a greenland paddle would work with one of the larger singles like a Long Haul M1?.......Do you think that would be a mis-match?..?

Many thanks for all of your insights and suggestions.....

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:34 pm
Posts: 1710
Location: Southeast Michigan
I use a Werner Arctic Wind (no longer made), which has very long, narrow blades, with my Mark-I. You can use longer Greenland style paddles, and a low-angle Greenland paddling style, especially if you're tall enough. You generally can't use a traditional Greenland paddle- although I hesitate to say that, since someone will prove me wrong.

Betsie Bay kayaks (http://www.bbkayak.com/)offers a wide range of Greenland paddles in different lengths designed for everything from traditional Greenland kayaks to wide boats. Their 90" Inuit might work on a Mk-I.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:22 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Hi,

I have a 73cm (29'') wide tandem folder and I prefer my 222cm GP to my 240cm EP.

I can make a quicker short sprint with my EP, otherwise GP is as efficient as the EP or better - and I get much less tired. I have never had carpal tunnel/elbow/wrist/shoulder or back problems, but I still always use the GP when possible - that is, when the front paddler isn't using it.

I am looking for (or I'll try to build) another GP of minimum 240cm - the opinions differ a lot on whether that length is better or if one should stick with a shorter GP and use sliding strokes, see below.

The GP does occasionally hit the side while paddling (so does the EP).

Most of the time I reposition my hands about 10cm for each GP stroke - that is a (semi-)sliding stroke. It is automatic and doesn't require any attention from me. If I want a slower, heavier "gear" I increase those 10 cm to, say 20 or 30 (higher values great for turning) - it's a very easy and intuitive feeling. My pushing hand is never higher than my chin, I almost never use my thumbs, and I only use the four other fingers for pulling, I push with a flat hand. I can (briefly) exceed 6 knots alone in my double folder with either GP or EP.

I am 185 cm tall with arm span of 200cm, but my wife is 165 with normal arm span and she also prefers the GP. I don't know if my long-ish arms are an asset wrt. GP paddling.

This month I'll receive my late grandfather's SOF from 1928 - can't wait :) and then I'll see if the GP works even better with a narrow kayak.

It's a really good idea to try one or more GP's before buying, if possible. That said, I'm sure it's easy to get rid of second hand - and most likely you'll want to keep it, at least as a spare or for variation.

If you are just starting out, the GP will be at least as easy as the EP to get used to. If you are a seasoned EP paddler, you might need a few weeks or months to readjust.

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Rasmus Møller

Triton Ladoga II Adv+3.5m2 sail+outriggers
"Nova" SOF from 1928
Euro + GP


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