Folding Kayaks Forum

I have long been curious about trying a Greenland paddle, but have not done so, in part, because I have read a number of offhand comments about the "different technique" required when using a Greenland paddle, but have never found a concise description of how the technique differs from that used with a "regular" paddle. I'm cautious about investing in a new paddle that I may not be able to use effectively.

Can anyone here point me toward a good, concise reference on the subject?

Thanks,

Doyle

http://www.qajaqusa.org/Technique/Technique.html
All you need to know

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Feathercraft Kahuna ( Angela )
Mariner Express ( Miruku Maru ) ( In Storage)
Innova Helios 380
Northwest Sportee (SuperBoat)
Innova Safari
Mariner I
Feathercraft Java
Nautiraid 14
Innova Sunny
Feathercraft K-Light

A couple of other resources:

The forward stroke of Greenland champ Maligiaq

Greenland forward stroke

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Nohoval

2003 - Feathercraft Kahuna
2004 - Klepper Alu-lite (guest boat)
2005 - Feathercraft Khatsalano

Appreciate the refs.

Maybe I'm being a little obtuse, but the principal distinguishing characteristic I could make out from the video was the cadence. That, and the fact that the elbows seem to be carried closer to the body. Are there any other major differences I'm missing? Or is this more one of those, "when you try it, you'll see how different it is" sort of things?

Thanks,

Doyle

The cadence; also, shorter stroke. And, yes, when you try it, you'll see how different it is. The stroke is more high-angle than typical cruising stroke with "Euro" paddle, lower hand comes very close to the water, while almost one third of the paddle is immersed - therefore it requires less effort per each stroke.

The feel of the stroke is very different, but it's hard to describe in detail - in time the paddle itself will teach you.

You don't plant the blade so far forward - there's no point since it needs to bury deeply to do any good.

The power for the stroke really must come from the torso. If you're in the habit of shouldering the stroke, you'll pay for it. Also, the power comes on in a different pattern than with a euro blade, but that just comes naturally. It's a little like skipping rather than walking along.

The forward cant of the blade is quite important for an efficient stroke, and can be quite counter-intuitive when you start. At first it will feel like you're pulling yourself in, but that goes away after a while.

Sometimes talk about the greenland forward stroke overemphasises the differences. Mostly the greenland stroke is the same - just the details are a little different.

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Nohoval

2003 - Feathercraft Kahuna
2004 - Klepper Alu-lite (guest boat)
2005 - Feathercraft Khatsalano

That forward cant is of critical importance, and makes a huge difference in the amount of bite the paddle gets.

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Michael Edelman
FoldingKayaks.org Webmaster

I agree. A GP is all about feel, and that takes time to appreciate. I've used a canted stroke
for many years before reading about it

I prefer long paddles...up to 94" and this allows a slower cadence as well as a flatter stroke
for some situations such as stability in rough water. Going more vertical increases power and pace.
I also prefer a flat power face ( edge view lengthwise) vs the more typical double taper of a GP. I get
more power and feel with this modified AP type, plus they are easier to make. The attached drawing
illustrates the difference.

A GP / AP have one other feature that I like... You can put as little or as much blade in the water and stll retain control.
The "modified" paddle below is actually an Aleut (AP) paddle minus the ridge. Some discussion has taken place on the various
forums regarding the correct location of the ridge with regards to the power face. I feel the ridge is opposite the power face,
others feel the ridge is on the power face.

Regards, Tom