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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 12:48 am 
I wonder whether it's possible to replace a fiberglass ferrule on a 2-piece GP Feathercraft Klatwa (both male and female part). The male part has become too loose inside the female. The ferrule appears to be glued or epoxied over the wooden shaft, and I have no idea how to remove it. Might try cutting off close to the butt, and then cutting carefully through the surface of the remaining piece of ferrule, and brake/peel it off. Did anybody try this?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:09 am 
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Alex, is the GP wood or fiberglas? In any case, it should be possible to remove the ferrule by Dremeling into it along several parallel lines and then sanding/heating and pulling, even if epoxy. Once the shafts are free, then it is a job of finding a replacement ferrule of the apropos internal diamerter and reattaching.

A tedious job and tricky to get good alignment on reattaching the new ferrule. Probably best done by a paddle manufacturer. I think Werner will replace ferrules on their own paddles, but do not know about others.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:37 am 
Hm... Thanks. I suspected it would be tricky, and didn't even think about alignment. Will have to try through the manufacturer.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:20 am
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Location: extreme Northern Wisconsin
I would think that it would be much easier, since it's only a bit sloppy. to just remove the button from the male part.

sand lightly with 220 or corser sand paper to get a little tooth. wipe off with Alcolol

Mix up some regular epoxy resin, then paint the male end with a thin layer , let cure...

sand with 220 or finner unti it fits.

replace the button

go paddling

Best wishes
Roy


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:16 pm 
Thanks, Roy. Will try it. What about gel coat for the same application? I have a feeling that it's a harder surface than cured epoxy.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:18 pm 
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Location: extreme Northern Wisconsin
Epoxy is a better choice ....it's what they will sugest if You ask the right people the question.

totally compatiable, it's what the shaft and ferrule is layed up with.

use a good quality epoxy (West, MAS) not the 5 min stuff from the hardware store.

let it cure 3 or 4 days before sanding and fitting.

Gel is better at other things, not for this.

Best Wishes
Roy


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:34 am 
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Alex,

Gel coat is polyester resin and won't cure over epoxy. Beg a bit of resin from an outfitter or similar. You can probably do it with an ounce or two. Silly to buy a pint for that job.

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Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Folbot Kodiak, Cooper, and Edisto; three hardshells; Mothership: Surf Scoter the Bartender; dinghy Little Blue Duck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:39 pm 
krudave wrote:
Gel coat is polyester resin and won't cure over epoxy.

Are composite ferrules on wooden paddles made of epoxy with fibers, or fiberglass (or polyester) resin with fibers?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:09 pm 
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Should be epoxy. Polyester resin adheres poorly to wood and will delaminate if the wood gets wet.

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Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Folbot Kodiak, Cooper, and Edisto; three hardshells; Mothership: Surf Scoter the Bartender; dinghy Little Blue Duck.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:02 pm 
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My Klatwa actually came from FC with a loose ferrule, and on their advice I epoxied it in place. The fit was good enough that alignment wasn't a problem.

As for removing it, you might try careful use of a heat gun. That will soften the epoxy ho,dong the ferrule on. Best bet might be to return it to FC for repair.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 12:44 am 
Mold release Q.

Still haven't got around to fix that loose ferrule, BUT...
What it I cover male ferrule with epoxy (like FadeRed suggested), then insert it into the female ferrule covered with mold release agent, align properly and let it cure? This looks the easiest way to get a good alignment with minimal sanding.
Now, how about Vaseline as a low-cost mold release? It's a petroleum jelly after all.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:41 pm 
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Alex, that is asking a lot iof the mold release, which is more designed to allow a female mold and male part to separate when there is a lot of relief (meaning: taper). A ferrule has essentially no relief, so the surfaces have to slide past one another a ways, while in contact. Mold release probably won't do it there. It might work. If it did not, you have a one-piece paddle. :roll: :(

Petroleum jelly is a poor choice in any case. Most of the professional kayak builders paint (or, spray) on a thin layer of polyvinyl alcohol (or, acetate) in water, let it dry, and then hit the mold with gel coat and go from there.

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Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Folbot Kodiak, Cooper, and Edisto; three hardshells; Mothership: Surf Scoter the Bartender; dinghy Little Blue Duck.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 11:00 pm 
krudave wrote:
It might work. If it did not, you have a one-piece paddle. :roll: :(

You're reading my mind :-) ...


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