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 Post subject: Kayaking in Scandanavia
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2014 12:19 am
Posts: 40
Location: Washington/Lake Mead/Ukraine
Hi

Seeking information for potential solo kayak journey(s).

Tentatively from Copenhagen then north along the shore of Sweden to the Oslo Fjiord. May start somewhere toward the southern tip of Sweden if the Kategut looks like Russian Roulette. Plenty of places to camp and resupply. My question is about fresh water supplies along the way. I typically filter water and carry up to 32 liters for long jumps.

I have the same question concerning a potential paddle from the Stockholm area north in the Gulf of Bothnia to Finland and then south. Lots of places to camp and get more food but what about filtering fresh water from streams and lakes along the way.

I have kayaked a fair amount along the shores of The Black Sea so am accustomed to hiking somewhere and bringing back 20 liters in a pack. Pretending to be a mule.

Thanks in advance.

Wayne


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 9:16 pm 
faltbootemeister

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 3:08 pm
Posts: 239
I have no information for you, but it sounds really cool. I hope you make a trip report.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:29 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:42 pm
Posts: 475
My brother lives in Gothenburg. I believe that coast and its archipelago is a pretty cool place to kayak, but I haven't yet managed to visit him with a folding kayak. It is on my list of things I want to do. I'll see if I can get him to post a reply here.
Let us know what you find out!

I'm also curious about kayaking along the Black Sea coast. (I go to Georgia quite a lot on business—in fact just returning today.) Which shores of that coast do you frequent?

All the best,
Ian

PS There was a guy posted a set of videos of canoe-sailing the Danish archipelago this summer. It looked very doable for kayaks as well. I'll see if I can track down his videos. Here they are:
http://www.songofthepaddle.co.uk/forum/ ... light=sail


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2019 8:20 am 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:42 pm
Posts: 475
from my brother;

Off the top of my head:

-Crossing the Kattegat sounds like something to do a lot of research on before attempting. I’ve had a whimsical google every now and then and people *do* do it, all the way up to Jutland-Gothenburg, but Helsingborg-Helsingor (aka Hamlet’s Elsinore) should be the shortest crossing of about 2-3km. Possible I suppose that a narrower strait also means busier, but I expect most shipping goes the west side of the island?

This appears to be the website for the local canoe club on the Swedish side. Why not drop a quick email and see what they’d advise. http://www.helsingborgskanotisterna.se . Or the Helsingborg tourist info, but I’m pretty sure they’d just tell you not to.
Or if it’s looking scary when you get there, just fold up the kayak and hop on the regular ferry between the two.

-Can’t say I’m familiar with restocking water since I’m more interested in inland paddling than you salt water enthusiasts… but I can’t believe it'd be a problem. You won’t go more than a few miles without passing some kind of town or marina and I can’t imagine any cafe or similar would begrudge you using their tap. Along the Bohuslan archipelago north of Gothenburg I expect they’re very used to paddlers. Almost everyone is extremely good at English here so I’d recommend just asking people for advice on where to refill as you go along.

-If you wanted to stop off in Gothenburg, you can paddle straight up the river so long as you’re careful of the big ferries coming past, and I don’t know if there are any rules about leaving a kayak at the guest harbour in town http://www.goteborgsgasthamn.se. Simpler alternative would be to take a ferry from an island (would recommend Brännö or perhaps Vrångö) to Saltholmen where trams are 20 minutes into town.

Can’t think of anything else


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2014 12:19 am
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Location: Washington/Lake Mead/Ukraine
Hi

Thanks for the info; it gives me a direction to go in to flesh all this out.

I have paddled the North Shore of The Black Sea. I was living in Yalta, in Crimea, for a while and managed to explore from Kerch in the east to Evpatoria in the west. The area between Sudak and Simiez was an absolute paradise for kayaking and rock climbing. I had to leave in April of 2014 and the area is no longer accessible. A real pity.

I have paddled the Dnieper and explored the delta as it meets The Black Sea. It's an amazing place. Traveling west you have a crossing of The Gulf of Mykolaev that can be somewhat daunting as the wind blows down the valley often and hard. Great camp site just after you finish. Very quiet and serene. Best camp spot I have been there.

Paddling west you will notice an enormous white tower, looks something like an airport control tower, at the end of a spit. This is Ochikiv. The friendly folks who man that tower, The State Border Gaurds, are going to want to meet and chat with you. Just land past the naval basin. You don't need to go looking for them. They will come to you. Best to have GPS tracks that you can show them. If you don't speak Ukrainian don't worry. They have English speakers. They are actually quite friendly. As you proceed from there westbound you will be required to check in with them when you depart each morning and when you stop at the end of each day. There are many Border Guard watch posts all along the way. Wave.

From Ochikiv to Fantanka it is hard to find a decent spot to camp. I split it up into two short days as I found a spot and could see a potential spot up ahead but it was a long way and the wind was rising. Lots of development along this stretch. I crossed 8.5 miles of open water from Fantanka to the south end of Odessa in order to avoid the insane amount of ship traffic in the port. A little windy but not too bad. There was a nice beach just where I needed it to be to take a break before pushing on. Keep some distance between yourself and Acadia Beach. 24 hour party and disco scene right on the water. It's not music, it's acoustic pressure, even from 2 kilometers offshore. Thankfully, once you are past Chornomorsk everything calms down. From there to the Danube Delta it's pretty much just straight exposed sandy beach. Sometimes a big swell rolls in from the south adding interest to landings and takeoffs. Thunderstorms get really big and move fast there. In July it's hot and humid but if you hang out in Georgia you know about that.

Lots of holiday making along this stretch. You can get water from all the stands along the beach, bread too if you are early enough and ice cream. I would leave my kayak pulled up, usually next to some Grannies, and be gone for as long as two hours looking for food and never had a problem. When you put ashore you are sure to meet a lot of curious and friendly people. The Danube Delta is worth a trip all by itself.

Hope this gives you a place to start. Feel free to ask any question you like.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 4:30 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:42 pm
Posts: 475
Thank *you* for all the detail in your reply about the Black Sea. I'm going to have to find some time to take a kayak there one day. It sounds amazing. (I've seen some other accounts of the Danube Delta, and another guy who open canoed all the way from the Atlantic coast of France to Romania, before leaving his canoe there over the winter, and then attempting to continue his paddle around to the Med, in order to return to France via that route. Unfortunately he chose to travel by the Maritsa (I think it was) and hadn't counted on the situation on the Turkish border what with the refugee crisis they've had there. He had his canoe taken off him by border guards and was then deported to Greece. But he plans to renew his attempt on behalf of his chosen charity once he's raised money for a new canoe.

My brother sent me another link about crossing Denmark to Sweden:
Another link for your Swedish coast guy re the crossing: http://www.kanotguiden.com/sv/guide/route/189

Google translate puts it thus: "Crossing the national border in kayaking can be exciting. Stick to the buoys that mark the fairway and watch out for intersecting traffic! The time is valid under normal current conditions. It may happen that you can turn at strong counter current."

Good luck with your plans. Let us know how it goes ...
Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:54 am
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Location: Sweden
A safe bet for fresh water is the guest harbors. Here's a list of guest harbors at the Southern West Coast of Sweden:

https://www.svenskagasthamnar.se/sodra-vastkusten/


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 4:11 am 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2014 12:19 am
Posts: 40
Location: Washington/Lake Mead/Ukraine
Thank you for the list of guest harbors/marinas along the SW Swedish coast. There appear to be very many and not badly situated for water resupply.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:54 am
Posts: 37
Location: Sweden
I don't think fresh water should be much of a problem. Basically water from any tap is good for drinking.


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