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 Post subject: Paddleboy Yedo cart
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:15 pm 
Have just received the box. First impressions - something is wrong with "wheels alighnment". Or may be it has to be that way? When looking from the front or rear, tops of the wheels are tilted outward. Partially due to the frame (it is not bent at the right angle), and partially due to the angle of the axle screw - each wheel is not parallel to the nearest half-moon piece, but titled outward at the top. I tend to think that it has to be that way - it makes turns easier.

Pretty wide wheel base - will try on the weekend, but I'm sure this is wide enough for any single and most of double kayaks.

Carrying packed boat.. hmm... my home-made cart did this better. Yedo can transport something like FC backpack, with some smaller bag on the top, strapped tight (which straps need to be attached yet). With 2-bag boats like Longhaul, Folbots, FC Klondike - possible but painful. Wide and shapeless skin bag needs to be strapped on the top of narrow frame bag, - quite unstabile structure, - otherwise skin bag would rest on the wheels.

Otherwise, - reasonably well built for [u]partially loaded kayak[/u] (aluminum cart). For some extreme portages I would go for stainless version - those halfmoon pieces don't look like can handle high stress at the push-button ends. Aesthetics, - all bolts are unnecessary long, - will have to saw off those protruding ends, and to replace hex bolts with more apropriate round-head machine screws. First have to decide what to do with this "wheels alignment". Anne, Greg?...


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 Post subject: Arrangement of Bags
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:30 pm 
If the wheelbase is wide enough, why not put the shapeless skin bag on the bottom, long bag on top? It might be more stable.


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 Post subject: Re: Arrangement of Bags
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:35 pm 
[quote="Christov_Tenn"]If the wheelbase is wide enough, why not put the shapeless skin bag on the bottom, long bag on top? It might be more stable.[/quote]

Wheelbase is wide enough to ensure that the boat won't flip to one side together with the cart. But skin bag is incredibly wide, - wider than wheel base, so the bag is rubbing against the wheels tops (because it is not rigid and droops immediately beyond the span of the "saddle" of the cart).

PS: Asked the manufacturer about that "alignment" - they e-mailed back in 15 minutes, wow... This is what they say: "the wheels are tilted, or “canted”, on purpose. That is so that when weight is placed on top of them they will become straight".

And, Chris - you've got me thinking, and I've figured out how to place Longhaul skin bag below the long frame bag. Unfolded Longhaul seat placed inside the bag laterally (from wheel to wheel), and telescopic (nested) tarp poles placed lengthwise, trapped between the padded crossbar and the kickstand raised over the crossbar. With some straps to keep it all in place.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:58 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:26 am
Posts: 350
Location: Republic of V.I.
Alex, my stainless steel Paddleboy does not have slanted wheels (just pulled it out from the trailer to check it out.) What I think is that the aluminum frame, being weaker than ss, has that inward bent to acommodate the weight of kayak. Kayak placed in the saddle and strapped tight will tend to pull top of the assembly inwards. The frame will give somehow and force the wheels to be square with the ground.

As I said, my cart does not have these problems. It is very robustly built, rated at 400 lbs should acommodate 200 lbs of equipment. The push-in pins seem to hold the frame together well (Feathercraft uses the same pins to hold the frame halves under enormous compression in heavy going.)

Alex, I use one long strap (about 14') to hold my Klondike on top of the cart. The strap goes like this: under, under, over kayak, under, under, over kayak. I tighten it rather well, then reposition the kayak so it is not twisted side to side, then re-tighten it well again.

Sometimes I place the cart at the stern of the kayak. It is easier to maneouver it in a difficult terrain. Of course, this way I have to carry almost half of its weight in one hand. The strapping goes as above, with the cart placed under the aft hatch (so the strap somehow embraces the hatch.) Then, the loose end that is closer to the cockpit goes through the rib #5, and is knotted there. It is to prevent the cart from sliding off the tapered end of the boat.

Alex, you take too much of my precious time! Next time I'll have to invoice you. The thing is that I'm re-surfacing my driveway to accommodate my new trailer and 2x4 truck. I should have ordered a 4x4 one in the first place to avoid all the traction problems on some of the steep sections of the driveway. Of course, there is no forum for steep driveway resurfacing techniques, so I was on my own with this. But I think that everything will be ready soon for a steep driveway climbing test with a 2x4 one ton diesel truck, and a 11,000 lbs 5th wheel. Wish me luck!

If you can, send back your aluminum cart and get the Heavylifter. The same dimensions, only 1.5 lbs heavier. Won't regret the change.

_________________
gregn

Klondike, Nimbus Telkwa


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 1:53 am 
Thanks, Greg, - and don't work too much in this summer heat.

The problem was transporting a bagged kayak (not assembled one). Try loading all 2 or 3 bags of Klondike on this cart, and you'll see what I mean. I'll see how aluminum will handle the stress of 200-230 lbs on short distances - MK1 with sail rig and all the food and gear for 2 weeks trip that will hopefully take place. As to the push-buttons, - I'm worried more about lateral pressure of inner tubes onto outer walls of the ends of half-moon pieces, - than about push-buttons itself.

Btw, I tried your idea of replacing Paddleboy wheels with those 12"*2" inflatalbe wheels from Northerntool. They weigh twice less than non-inflatable Yedo wheels, and almost fit onto the Yedo bronze bushings which have OD=0.5", - ALMOST. Ball bearings of these Northerntool wheels are supposed to have opening 0.5", but 3 out of 4 bearings (set of 2 on each wheel) have it less than 0.5". Bearings, as I vaguely recall, are usually made with tight tolerances for axle, but in this case the 3-rd world suppliers of Northerntool are probably to be blamed - 1 bearing fits 0.5" axle, but 3 other - I can't even hammer them onto the axle (that's why had to polish off the axle in my home-made cart for these wheels).


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