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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:44 am 
This has been discussed many times, but I wonder if there are any new developments. Just checked my urethane-on-nylon drybags before the season, and two are well worn off. I'd like them to make it through the summer one last time, before discarding them. There are no visible holes, but when filled with water, they "sweat" profusely on some spots. I've fixed the most serious spots with Aquaseal, but there ar so many of them - fabric is wearing out. Exotic things like "liquid rubber" are not avaialble in Canada, and these bags are not worth it. Have an incredible temptation to brush it on at the outside with Thomson Seal (patio deck sealant, have a big can of it), and call it a day. Thomson says "do not use on fabrics", but I'm not wearing these fabrics, and it is on the outside, and is merely a parafin-like composition, according to Dave (a source trustworthy in these matters).

PS: filling the bags with water creates a lot of pressure, and this exceeds the requirements to the fabric in "normal" conditions - some bilge water on the outside wont't be able to penetrate because it doesn't have that much pressure. But in a swamped boat this is an adequate test.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:36 pm 
OK, may be somebody has expirience wiith these 2 products:
1) Nikwax Tent and Gear Waterproofer: claims to be designed for urethane, neoprene and dacron fabrics.
2) Seam Grip Tent Sure Floor Sealant: water-based urethane solution.

Both are made for non-breathable fabrics (fine with me), and both are available few blocks from me at MEC store:
This one and
this one
First one is twice bigger container, but so is the price.

And another question- did anybody try and re-coat Feathercraft seasock? Because of rudder pedals and shoes, it is worn out more than any old drybag, and the new seasock costs way more than any drybag. No tears, but a lot of bald spots. And it is vinyl-coated, if my memory is correct - not urethane, so any coating has to be done on the fabric side (there are no good coats for vinyl surfaces, AFAIK).

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:54 am 
No replies yet to this old thread. I'm about to try the Seam Grip Floor Sealant on my sea sock.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:17 am 

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 1:37 am
Posts: 149
Location: Vancouver BC
Seam Grip and Aquaseal are essentially the same thing, but Seam Grip uses a thinner formula. Between the two I tend to use Seam Grip as it "paints" onto surfaces more easily.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:22 pm 
Brotherhood of the Golden Paddle

Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:05 pm
Posts: 1427
Location: South Salem, NY
Is there a way to keep Aquaseal fresh for more than one use?

I've only used it once, but that one use ended up killing the tube. A huge waste if you ask me. I was pretty careful about getting the air out and capping it fairly quickly as well. Asking a few others in the neighborhood this seems to be the status quo for Aquaseal. I find this a little hard to believe...

Any thoughts or solutions?


Klepper Aerius II
Klepper T9
Long Haul MK1 Expedition 'light'
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:33 am 
Brotherhood of the Golden Paddle

Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:40 pm
Posts: 1172
Location: isles of scilly UK
After using it did you keep it in the fridge?. I think you are supposed to, i didn,t and it became virtually a solid tube and useless. For gluing patches on i have found ZODIAC adhesive to be good, it comes in decent size tubes.In Ontario i buy mine from CO2 inflatables. This is intended for Hyperlon, so i have strayed from the subject title. While this is made for hyperlon i would try it on other lower hull materials, of course try it on some "scrap" pieces first. Here are the instructions, Rough and clean the area to be patched with abrasive, (sandpaper?) remove all dust, you should probably do this on the patch, it dosn,t say it, apply an adhesive layer to both surfaces and allow to dry for 5 to 10 minutes, apply a second layer of adhesive and allow to dry for 5 to 10 minutes then press the patch on firmly.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:26 pm 
Hi, have had GREAT results re-proofing my Urethane delaminated Feathercraft decks.

Simply get some Sikaflex brand sealant. #291 (others are probably just as good)
Squeeze some sealant into jar and add Mineral turpentine (enamel paint thinner)
Mix to a thin paint like goo, then paint INSIDE of deck / sprayskirt.
Pay lots of attention to seams.
Will take DAYS to dry ( rather smelly)
Avoid painting outside (top) of decks as it makes them Non slipping against skin.
Also it is not needed as this goo is VERY waterproof.

-HINT use white if coating INSIDE dry bags as it makes it easier to see goodies inside.
Cheap and very effective.
Enjoy.. Wayne

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:25 am 
I have had success recoating Feathercraft sea socks using silicon sealant dissolved in white spirit. A single coat leaves numerous small weeping spots but a second coat is close to perfect. It cost me about $15 per sock. I don't yet know how long it will last but it is easy to redo.

Detail: I used silicon sealant in 300 gram tubes used to seal guttering. There were about 20 versions in the hardware store and maybe they would all work but opinion on the net seemed to suggest you should aim for as few additives as possible. I found a Selleys product labelled 100% silicon. It also claimed to allow stretching of 25% which was better than the other products.

I dissolved this in a cleaning fluid that is called White Spirit here in Australia but there seems to be confusion over the term. This is not a stove fuel, it is not mineral turpentine though it smells the same. It dissolves silicon easily which is important. I think you can use mineral turpentine but it dissolves silicon less well I think ( search for DIY seam sealant).

There are many ratios mentioned on the net from 1.5:1 white spirit to over 10:1. I don't think it is critical. I used 1500ml white spirit with 300g silicon which is 5:1. I put that in the bottom of a plastic bucket, used a stick to agitate until well dissolved and then dunked the sock in sloshing it around and then gradually turning it inside out. Lifting the sock out and letting it drip it needs to hang over something so the 2 sides of the sock don't touch. I used a saw horse. After say an hour in the sun I rearranged it to allow better drying and pull apart any stuck together material. It takes a day or two to dry well. I recoated a day later. I did try just painting it on with a brush but that was slower and more difficult.

I had pre washed the sea sock. This will ruin any remaining urethane coating. I then used a brush to remove the loose flaking urethane. If a patch of urethane was well stuck on I just left it. The silicon soaks through from the other side and seems to help glue it down. You have to remove the loose stuff but don't need to be obsessive IMHO.

I also did a spray skirt , the K2's hatch covers and the hatch tunnels both sides.

2 coats is waterproof enough to fill the sock with 10+ litres of water and only have the odd drip. I guess you could treat the drip spots.

I suspect you could do a deck of a Cordura boat. It might look blotchy but I think it would work. My deck only needed Scotch Guard.

I think the silicon works well as Feathercraft only coated one side of the fabric. This allows the silicon to impregnate the Cordura fibres well soaking in from the uncoated side. If it was a dual coated fabric it may not have worked as well. It may be that a thinner mix for the first coat followed by a thicker second coat would be better. I have no experience doing the same trick with Urethane but it is my suspicion that silicon impregnates better than urethane. Even when applied industrially urethane coating just peels off when it ages. Tents are now made of Silnylon instead of urethane coated nylon.

( my thanks to Franco Darioli, Roger Caffin and Wilderness Equipment Tents from whose web sites I learned the technique).


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