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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:15 pm 
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Location: Sweden
Ah, Thank you ReinerM.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 5:08 pm 
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A T9 you say. What does that mean for the age of the boat? I always thought it was an early eighties model.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 12:35 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=36&t=8215#p42268


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 4:14 pm 
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Sorry and again, thank you ReinerM. 1960's, eh? No wonder the fabric is a little stiff. Time after time it strikes me how over the top the quality of these kayaks is.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:10 pm 
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Part I of IV
Working with wood felt relatively familiar but both the deck and the hull needed attention. The hull was in good working order but since I was to redo the deck anyway I figured I should take the opportunity to refurbish the hull as well.

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The general condition of the hull was pretty good but the bow and stern looked cracked and dull and the bracket for the rudder sat worryingly loose.

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I made sure to measure the deck before separating the worn deck from the hull. When separated it was easy to work with the hull, washing it with soap and then cleaning it with acetone in preparation for the painting. Please note that the acetone will eat through a lot of materials including nitrile gloves. The hypalon however will resist.

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Prior to paiting however there was a few more preparations to be made. One was to make a new nose for the bow. Fortunately I had some hypalon that my parents bought with the kayak some fourty years ago. The glue they bought in the seventies had hardened so I had to get new glue from Avanza Kajak who sent me good quality German glue from Heinz Zölzer. It demands good ventilation (outdoors if you can) but it is really good to work with. I apply it to both parts that are to be glued using a brush and when they are put together there is a bit of room for adjustment but when it sets it really sits. As I understand it, this glue cures with heat so in some parts I used a heat gun to speed up the process.


Last edited by Abbesnabb on Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:15 pm 
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Part II of IV
Before making the new nose I assembled the wooden frame to obtain the right shape. I had to use tape to hold the hull to the frame since the deck was taken off already. I then glued my new hypalon nose from the inside of the hull (cleaned with acetone).

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In the next step before actually painting the hull, I wanted to make some small repairs and reinforcements for this I used Sikaflex 591. The Sikaflex is available in grey but my local marine store had only white or black so I went with white since it was to be covered by paint anyway.

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The Sikaflex turned out to be very sticky to work with. I am glad I used nitrile gloves so that it didn’t stick to my fingers. I tried to use detergent and it worked passably, I tried to cover it with plastic for a smoother surface but that made it even more difficult to work with. Sikaflex claims that it can be processed when cured. One solution for a smoother surface would have been to let it cure and then sand it down but I was eager and working outdoors not willing to risk rain or bad weather on my groundwork.

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Last edited by Abbesnabb on Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:19 pm 
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Location: Sweden
Part III of IV
Just in time I received my Veneziani Gummipaint from Germany. It felt somewhat grand to receive a parcel from a company in ”Worldwide Yacht Management”. The Veneziani Gummipaint should be the number one choice according to this forum. According to Maritimus one can would be sufficient for about one layer of paint and they were just about right.

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In preparation for paint application I assebled the wood frame and covered it with plastic to avoid rubber paint on the wooden parts. After all this preparation the hull was ready to get painted. I mixed the paint with the same brand of dilutene as the paint. I choosed to apply the pain by spraying it, partially because a brush would leave traces and partially because I had the spray-equipment already. The gummipaint was easy to apply by spraying and dried real fast. However I learned that the paint/dilutene-mix affected the shade of the color so since I mixed small batches I ended up with a rather uneven surface color. Not that it probably matters for functionality but it would look better with an even grey.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 4:24 pm 
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Part IV of IV

The paint seem to grip the hypalon good and looks sturdy enough (no field testing yet) but the hull feels stiffer than before.
Since I had the chance I polished the bracket for the rudder and screwed it tight. It sits in a hole through the hull with a counter bar in copper and a bolt on a threaded rod. I glued new (from the 1970:s) hypalon from the inside for reinforcement.

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Next step: Finishing the deck.

More and larger pictures at https://skrymta.se/2019/09/30/klepper-aerius-20-skrovet/


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 3:02 pm 
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Finishing the deck

Part I of IV

Next challenge: The deck. As previously noted, the deck on the Klepper Aerius 20 was beyond salvation. Weather, wind and of course the weight of snow and wasps had done their parts.
A new deck with hull would cost somewhere around SEK 15000 (USD 1500). It’s totally worth buying one. The Klepper founder, Johann Klepper, was a tailor. I previously found it peculiar that he would venture into the kayak business. I now see the point clearly. When I sewed by hand I finished about two or three decimeters an hour. Especially stern and aft where the space is limited was very slow. As long as the deck was parted from the hull I could use a sewing machine and that was not much of a problem. The fitting in the stern arrived after I had started to sew the deck to the hull and I had to sew it by hand which took ridiculously long.
As I have understood it the original Klepper fabric is Egyptian cotton at a surface weight of 1000 grams per meter (gsm). It was not simple finding that type of fabric and at the end I settled for a cotton fabric at 1000 gsm (although not Egyptian). If felt way more thick than the original but it could be because it was old and worn or perhaps there is a difference in quality. Perhaps when waterproofed it will be more flexible.

Washing the fabric
The fabric came on a roll with a width of 150 cm and I bought six meters to be on the safe side. With all facts on hand I could have went for much less since I only used less than 3,5 meters (the kayak is 520 cm long). New fabric will shrink and to avoid shrinking of the new deck I washed the fabric in 30 degrees Celsius. Six meters of fabric is just about what a household washing machine can handle if you really push it, it’s somewhere around nine kilos of fabric after all. Turned out it was a good idea to wash the fabric for more than one reason since it seemed to be hosting some nasty stuff (chemicals?). The rinse water was very turbid and it reeked of some obscure smell. The stench would not pass so I washed it once more, this time in forty degrees. After two washes it smelled much nicer. My recommendation is to wash your fabric thoroughly before you start using it.

Once again I am stunned by the through and through quality and attention to detail in design and material. It is a joy to work with such solid craft, made to last, maintain and repair. What parts you don’t want to build your self is available to purchase, same parts as used forty years ago (and more).


Last edited by Abbesnabb on Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 3:10 pm 
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Part II of IV

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I used paper towel on a roll to make a template from the old deck. I worked on the assembled kayak to make sure I had the right shape. Traced with a pencil and then cut the paper template and put that on my fabric. Make sure to include seam allowance before you cut your fabric.

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By ironing the fabric I shaped it when needed and could use the folds as guides for my stitches.

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Frequent checks and fittings turned out to be useful. After cutting one part I made the next paper template.

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The deck was in such bad shape I hade to tape it to the frame to obtain the right shape.

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Parts of the old fabric could be ripped from the hull while other parts had to be picked. The original was sewn with a cotton thread that with time had become brittle.

The air sponsons

Initially I had hoped that I would be able to use the original air sponson casing. However it turned out to be in bad shape so I decided to make new ones. Here I let economy surpass aesthetics and bought some cheap thin fabric at sale for the new casing. The color could have been better but the casing can barely be seen when the kayak is assembled so this had to do.

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After gentle soap wash the air sponsons turned out to be in excellent shape. After drying they look practically new.


Last edited by Abbesnabb on Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:17 pm 
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Part III of IV

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I realized that the cockpit coaming would be a tricky case so I decided to reuse the existing coaming. This was the toughest part for my Bernina sewing machine.

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Used needles to peg down the casings for the air sponsons and other parts that was to be attached with the one seam running from aft to stern. Both loops and hooks are sewn into this seam.

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This plastic ring can hold a Klepper bag and the blue original fabric was in such good shape I let it follow to the new deck. Felt good as a tribute to the original.

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While at it I made some adjustments and custom details such as reinforcements, carrying handles and paddle holders.

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I tried to see if I had the deck to fit as I went along. When the whole deck was done I laid it out over the hull to see if it would fit. I had already marked where the seams between the different parts of fabric should meet the hull.

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An experience I bring, should I do this again, is to make more marks throughout the inside of the deck to have a guide when I would attach the deck to the hull. The cotton is flexible and it is easy to stretch it or give it slack along the seam and it can then get hard to have it come out even with the more rigid hull. I had to pick about half a meter of my own seam on one side since I had more hull than deck at the end.


Last edited by Abbesnabb on Fri Oct 25, 2019 6:39 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:21 pm 
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Part IV of IV

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On the original there are ribbons running between the deck and the hull. I don’t know the purpose of these ribbons but I decided to use ribbons too. Perhaps they are there to reduce friction between the fabric and the rubber. Perhaps they have only aesthetic purposes.

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There were times when a kayak seemed far. In this picture you can see the condition of the air sponsons (red).

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I used a sewing awl for my manual stitching, ”Speedy stitcher” brand. Went rather well when I got the hang of it. Apparently it is important to run the thread through the loop at the back, otherwise there will be inavoidable tangle. I bought a variety of threads before I found a millimeter thick synthetic thread, ”Robline – Max Wax Yarn”. I wanted a size close to the original to not put unecessary wear to the existing holes that I used. I bought a spool of 50 meters and it was more than enough even though I scrapped considerable lenghts of thread due to tangling. The synthetic thread should last longer than the original cotton.

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Then finally one evening I was done. The new deck was fully attached to the hull.

More and larger pictures at: https://skrymta.se/2019/10/23/hur-jag-sydde-ett-nytt-dack-till-klepper-aerius-20/


Last edited by Abbesnabb on Fri Oct 25, 2019 4:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 9:29 pm 
faltbootemeister

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 3:08 pm
Posts: 227
Great thread, nice work, thank you!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 4:40 am 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:42 pm
Posts: 475
very impressive. Thanks for sharing.
Would love to see some more pictures of it afloat. ;-)
Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 4:04 pm 
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Location: Sweden
And so, the second Sunday in October it was time to put the Klepper Aerius 20 in the water. After weeks of freezing weather a sunny Sunday came and I didn't have to wait for the spring.

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Packing it all into the car, the advantages of a faltboot.

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Will it fit?

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Inflating the air sponsons, hard work.

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Testing the new accessories. One of four removable side-bags.

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Moment of truth, will it float?

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And it floats. First time in water since 10-15 years.

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There are still things to finish and adjust. Have to put loops for the paddle holders. Will put some straps on and the stern needs to be finished, also the rudder wires needs replacement but all in all the maiden voyage with the new deck went well.

Will also need to waterproof the deck. I don't know if I'll just go for the transparent version or if I should try to dye it blue. I fear it will be hard to dye it evenly with all the layers of fabric. Anyone with experience of this that can give some input?


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