Folbot lubrication

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Gouthro
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:22 pm

Folbot lubrication

Post by Gouthro »

Good day,
I had my new folbot out in saltwater and have a couple of questions, i woul be happy if someone would be kind enough to answer.

On the folbot brochure it says to coat the longerons an other parts with a silicon spray after rinsing with water after use in salt water. A search on these forums, however, reveals that some experienced users say to never let silicon close to hypalon.

What would be the best lubricant to use?
Thanks g

mje
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:34 pm
Location: Southeast Michigan

Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by mje »

Just rinse them thoroughly to remove any trace of salt. Lubricating after they’ve been washed of salt won’t really do any good.

What would help would be to apply some sort of protective wax, like Boeshield, BEFORE you put the boat in saltwater. I wouldn’t bother unless you were doing a multi-day saltwater trip.

The only place this is critical is where the thing is joined together, but Folbots have such loose fittings that the danger of tubes sticking together is minimal, compared with Feathercrafts. With those boats, adding a protective film coating where tubes join together is critical, as many have discovered.
Michael Edelman
FoldingKayaks.org Webmaster

RangerTim
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Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by RangerTim »

I agree with Michael. Our Folbots are on salt water almost exclusively. Before we assemble we spray the longeron connections with Boeshield. Our GIIs may be out for 2-4 weeks. Disassembly has never been a problem.

Proper rinsing immediately after disassembly may not be practical, but we do it as soon as we can. That said, a few years ago we bought an early 2000s salt water Aleut from someone who did not make a practice of rinsing the boat. The skin and all of the frame pieces were in their bags, salt encrusted. The aluminum was fine. We rinsed it of course.

Another disassembly tip: When mating the fore and aft frame assembly longerons, we do not allow the spring-loaded button to pop into the hole in the connecting sleeve. The sleeve without the button engaged has never come off, while an engaged button makes disassembly difficult without a tool.
Ann and me
Folbots: Too many. It's embarrassing.
Feathercraft: Aeronaut
Klepper: AEI - Jonathan Waterman's boat
Hardshells x6

Gouthro
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:22 pm

Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by Gouthro »

Thanks for the information. I am a bit more at ease now. Regarding the button snap on the longerons--you are right. I discovered that the hard way. Lucky to have my pocket knife with me!

Another problem i had was the back section of the washboards. I couldn't seem to get it connected to the main washboards. Is this a familiar proble? Or, am i doing something wrong or missing a part?
Thanks g

john allsop
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Location: isles of scilly UK

Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by john allsop »

The back cross piece of the Yukon washboard I have seemed to be not wide enough, so I extended each side about a quarter of a inch with wood. That made it ok. I can.t take any photos at present as it is in the shed and I am housebound with a broken hip.

Gouthro
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Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by Gouthro »

Yes, my back piece seems too short, as well. I wondered whether i was doing something wrong. but, if you have that problem it might indicate something. Sorry, for the long delay, I was away for awhile/
g

HoosierPaddler
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Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by HoosierPaddler »

Not that is makes any difference, but I usually leave that piece out when I assemble my GII or Kodiak. To me it doesn't serve any structural purpose, its just there to attach the skirt to, and since I rarely if ever bring or use the Folbot skirt, its not necessary. My 2 cents.

Hoosier Paddler
GIIx2, Kodiak x2, Edisto, and Citibot

Alv
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Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2015 2:10 pm

Re: Folbot lubrication

Post by Alv »

You have been advised not to use silicone on hypalon. That may well be good advise, but Folbot stopped using hypalon, and presumably any recently manufactured boat is made of their new material, and they may well have given you good advise.

You should also be careful in the future to use repair materials and adhesives that are compatible with the material you actually have.

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