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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:35 am
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Location: Southampton, N.J. U.S.A.
My wife and I will be inspecting a 1994 Raid II with full expedition package on Saturday. We would be buying from the original owner. He states that the kayak has only been used about half a dozen times. However, each of those uses was a major trip in Alaska, etc. He indicates that it has never needed repair, but does have numerous oil/grease stains from freight transport. It has been stored folded for quite a few years. I do not know whether this storage was in a climate-controlled environment.

I'd like to know what the major concerns might be with such a boat. Might there be real degradation of deck and/or hull because of the oil/grease? Is there a strong possibility of skin cracks or poor water resistance because of age/storage? I've read of de-lamination issues regarding Nautiraids during certain periods. Does this kayak fall into one of those periods?

Any comments germane to this issue would be much appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:55 pm 
Site Admin

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:34 pm
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Location: Southeast Michigan
I think Hypalon is pretty oil and gas resistant. The biggest enemy is heat. Flex the hull and make sure there are no cracks. I think the deck is PVC coated polyester. Same precautions hold. Difference is that you can touch up the coating on the deck, if need be.
.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:35 am
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Location: Southampton, N.J. U.S.A.
The Nautiraid was in overall good to excellent condition. No rips, cracks, breaks, or tears anywhere. With the exception of some staining, the boat looked five years old.

The owner wanted to assemble the boat for me since the Nautiraid system is unusual. It took both of us almost two hours to do so. The were several missteps that required extensive backtracking; however, the primary issue was the frame's fit within the skin. Insertion of both the bow and stern sections required repeated attempts with much pushing with feet and arms. Aligning and installing the deck into the wooden coaming was almost impossible due to shrinkage/stiffness. Disassembly proved equally troublesome. With me holding the bow's carry strap, the owner was barely able to extract the two sections. Each required numerous attempts. In its current condition, assembly/disassembly by one person in the field would demand exceptional strength and skill.

The owner purchased the kayak new from Jersey Paddler in the early to mid nineties. Apparently, this was the last Nautiraid that dealer sold. He gave the purchaser all the spare parts he had available as part of the sale, indicating that the only other option was trashing them.

The owner used it during trips to the Arctic and Caribbean. He wasn't entirely sure of the specific model or year of manufacture. His best guess was Raid II 500 made in the late eighties. The kayak has been stored packed for almost the entirety of its twenty-five years. I assume that the installation difficulties we experienced would abate if the boat primarily were to be stored assembled. However, uncertainty regarding this does make me hesitant.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:49 am 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
I tried soap and 303 spray on my Nautiraid Narak before stumbling on....water(!) as a lubricant for getting the skin on more easily, along with taking a good swing at it - it's a bit of a gamble getting the skin on straight that way though.
To get it off easily, I discovered that if you grab the point of the bow or stern by just enough fabric to get a grip with the fingers of one hand and shake the kayak from side to side for all you're worth, the skin suddenly slips free. That made a huge difference. I'm afraid I don't know if the Raid II is more difficult to get the skin on than the Narak unfortunately

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Simon

Pakboats Quest 135, Nautiraid Narak 460, 416 & K1 (sold my 550), First light 420, Feathercraft Wisper, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (for sale)
Non-folders: Cape Falcon F1. Beth sailing canoe, 2014 Hobie Adventure Island


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:35 am
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Location: Southampton, N.J. U.S.A.
siravingmon wrote:
I tried soap and 303 spray on my Nautiraid Narak before stumbling on....water(!) as a lubricant for getting the skin on more easily, along with taking a good swing at it - it's a bit of a gamble getting the skin on straight that way though.


I've been told that talc can be an effective lubricant. I do wonder about long-term build-up over time.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:27 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Haven't tried talc on my Narak. I suspect it would lose its effectiveness once damp, and that you'd end up getting talc everywhere except where you want it, or at least that's my experience from using it on neoprene-only freediving wetsuits :D
BTW As you'll be washing the skin each time you disassemble the Raid, I can't imagine why talc buildup would be a problem...

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Simon

Pakboats Quest 135, Nautiraid Narak 460, 416 & K1 (sold my 550), First light 420, Feathercraft Wisper, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (for sale)
Non-folders: Cape Falcon F1. Beth sailing canoe, 2014 Hobie Adventure Island


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