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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:54 am 
Hello all!

I am putting together the frame and could use a bit of help. I have had no luck finding snap buttons locally (St Pete, FL) for holding the tubing together. Is there anyone who bought the min order from Valco and has some to sell? I am thinking ~18 or so. (http://www.yostwerks.com/Spring.html)

Also, I am supposed to center the stringers over the center of balance (LCB) of the kayak, but don't see that specified for the Seatour 17. I figure that it is just a bit back from center, so I can approximate, but a real number would be useful. (http://www.yostwerks.com/SeaTour17Offsets.html)

Thanks!
Justin


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:49 pm 
Quote:
Also, I am supposed to center the stringers over the center of balance (LCB) of the kayak, but don't see that specified for the Seatour 17. I figure that it is just a bit back from center, so I can approximate, but a real number would be useful.


It really doesn't matter... anywhere close to center is ok. It's best that all individual tube breaks are at least 3 - 4 inches
from the cross sections.

Look closely at the Sea Rider, Sea Glider, Sea Otter sections of the manual for additional frame pics with the latest frame construction techniques,
and pay attention to the tube breaks and the tube section lengths. There is great variety to all of this....depending on when the boats were built,
the alignment of the planets, and my mood at the time :)

Look at the stringer to stem attachments as I now prefer aluminum tabs vs HDPE and arched inwales. Also,
an in skin aluminum coaming like on the Sea Rider, and Sonnet , is easy to make, and lightweight. Simple is good.

On the Sea Tour's, an "R" version aft deck makes for easier entry / exit than the peaked aft deck of the standard Sea Tour.
It looks better also. The standard peaked deck is a bit easier to skin however.

I can't help you with the spring pins... perhaps you can make your own. They aren't absolutely necessary, but do aid greatly during assembly.

Regards, Tom

Sea Otter "R" tube breaks and tube lengths - The Sea Otter is a skinny Sea Tour 15.
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:00 am 
Thanks for the pointer, I see that those sections have some useful updates, I like the idea of tool-less assembly. If I can master the tube bending enough to avoid mangling the coaming I like that idea too.

I will take a closer look at the 17-R. Easier entry and exit can only be good, especially considering I am new at this.

Do you recommend the use of inwales on the Seatour 17/17-R? I see that the Otter does not have them, though I think I saw at least one Seatour on your site that did.

Thank you for the inspiration Tom, and the input.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:44 pm 
Quote:
If I can master the tube bending enough to avoid mangling the coaming I like that idea too.


It's pretty easy with 1/2" aluminum as a tube bender isn't required. Just add muscle :)

Sonnet 16 coaming
Image
Image

Not all builders use arched inwales. You can try the boat without them, and add them later if you want.

See the PDF file below for additional arched inwale detail. The Sea Cruiser is a "Greenland" looking
design that was the basis of the Sea Tour 17, though chine placement is a bit different. Good Roller :)

A Sea Cruiser builder, Carlos Roldan, created the drawings.

http://www.yostwerks.com/sc.pdf - Sea Cruiser drawing / Arched Inwales

His boat on the water ...
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:41 pm 
Oh, I see, the wood forms would make that much more manageable. However, it appears that makes the breaks in the coaming at a 90 degree offset from the CL of the kayak, and so would not come apart when the skin was unzipped. Do they just slide out instead? Or is a different break in the skin made?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:06 pm 
Ok, I looked through the Sonnet instructions and see what you are doing with the skin rolling over the coaming. Taking that idea and melding it with the Seatour skin, I would imagine rolling the zipper wouldn't work well, but the zipper could pull past the tube, coming inside the cockpit, having a velcro flap running up the CL of the coaming tube, and then it could be rolled down with the 1/2" tubing coaming.

Thanks for the inwale info, I will start without and see how it turns out.


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